Build Log RV-10 #1

Blog for a Vans RV-10 Airplane Build

Control System

This weekend I started working on tghe control system.  However, mad some mistakes and had to quit.

Started off by fabricating the elevator push tubes.  Got them cut to length the using the template, marked the holes to be drilled for riveting the threaded rod ends.  Holes were marked and drilled.  I did do both tubes at the same time so that I could get them coated on the inside with Akzo primer.  Made up a batch and poured inside getting them coated.  Set aside to dry and will finish riveting the ends in tomorrow.

Moved on to getting the jam nuts put on all rod end bearings. Then worked on the Aileron pushrods.  Installed the rod end bearings in each and all jams tightened to where the pieces are to the correct length.

I then started to work on the elevator idler arms and got them put together with clecos and then started to match drill.  For some reason I decided to not align the holes in the flange bearing and proceeded to drill completely new holes.  Once I realized this, time to stop and order a new flange bearing.  This probably was not a big deal but bothered me enough to set aside until new part arrives.

The pushrods then dried overnight so I installed and riveted the threade rod ends in and then got a coat of primer put on the oustide.  Again set aside for a day to let dry. 

While they were drying I moved on to the controls sticks.  Got the control stick base aligned up correctly and drilled to the control sticks.  This was a bit tricky but took my time and everything worked out good.

I then got the control column prepped and installed into the fuselage, bolted and torqued per specs.  Next was to get the control stick bases installed to the control column but there are a couple of bronze bushings that need to be opened up enough for a AN4 Bolt.  I did not have a reamer so I tried to use a 1/4 drill in a drill press to get them to the right size.  This ended in complete failure and ruined the bushings. 

Now that I have a couple of different pieces that I screwed up on and ruined. I am stopping with this section and will finish when I get new parts from Vans.

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Empennage Fairings

Started September 15, 2010 - 4 hours so far

Needed a bit of a break from the fuel tanks, am also waiting for another batch of proseal from Vans.  So I started to work on the empennage fairings.

Read through the directions and they seem pretty straight forward as far as getting them fitted.  I am going to use the West Systems to fiberglass them so there a smooth transition from the fairings to the empennage parts.  The only one that will be removable will be the bottom fairing on the rudder.  This is just in case I need to get at the light and/or wiring.

Got all the fairings trimmed, fitted and sanded.  Before I rivet them to the empennage, i will be using proseal to attach strips of aluminum to the insides of the fairings as a better support for the rivets.  I do not want them pulling through the fiberglass.

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Rudder Trim

Started on August 11, 2009 - Build Time 29 hours

After looking for as many different ideas on  adding rudder trim.  I  have chosen to use the method that both Robin  Marks and Geoff Combs  have used.

I am thinking of making just a few changes to there  method and will try  to give as best description of this as I go.

My first step is to mark out on the rudder where everything will go.  I  tried to get pretty close to the middle of two skin stiffeners.  I  picked the ones that the middle hinge cutout is. 

The tab is  7" wide and 3 3/4" deep at and 2 3/8".  The difference is to  make the  front side of the tab perpendicular to the leading edge of the  rudder. I  then marked out the access plate, locating it       3 1/8"  from the  leading edge of the tab.

The next step was to drill a starting hole for the access plate.  I  then  clecoed and then match drilled all the outside holes with a #30  bit. I  probably should have used a #40 but used the #30 by mistake.  To  match  up all the rivets so they look the same, I will just use the  1097AD4-3  (also known as Oops Rivets).  I then clecoed the access cover  to the  skin and marked where I need to cut out.

The cut out was made with a dremel and cutoff wheel.  To make the cut  straight, I laid a straight edge to where the cut needed to be and ran  the dremel with a sanding wheel along it.  The cut came out nice and  straight.  I also made the elongated hole for the push rod also with a  dremel tool.

Everything was then deburred, dimpled then alodine  and Akzo primer  applied.

Tonight I started with cutting trim tab out of the rudder.  I used  once  again a dremel with cut off wheel then finished the trim work with  a  file and a sand drum on the dremel.  This was a bit nerve racking to  do,  but it worked out just about perfect.

I then made a  U-shaped rib to fit between the 2 skin stiffeners that  will give the  skin some more strength.  Also, the hinge for the trim tab  will be also  be riveted to it.

I then used a rivet spacing fan to mark out  the holes on the trim tab  and the hinge.  Then did the same for the  holes that protrude through  the skin, the new u-brace, and the hinge  attached to the rudder.

After getting this area for the hing  cut out, It came to me that I  should have flipped the hinge over so  that it did not protrude out.  It  is only a very little bit and do not  think it will make any performance  issues so I just left it the way it  was.

Then clecoed everything together to check the fit and  looked pretty good  except for some minor trimming.  Like a bit of skin  removal for the  hing pivot area.  Once that was done, I deburred all  the edges and holes  and dimpled.

I then moved on to the access  plate, I dimpled all the holes and riveted  on the nut plates  (k1000-06) and then riveted the access plate frame to  the rudder skin.   Since the nut plates use #6 screws, I had do  re-dimple the access  cover and plate with a number 6 dimple die.

Today I Finished cleaning up all the holes.  Had to dimple the holes  for  the piano hinge and the holes in trim tab.  Removed the brace that  runs  vertically placed by the trim tab slot that the skin and hinge  attache  to so it could be deburred and trimmed just a bit.

Then it was time to manufacture a control horn.  Just took an extra  piece of aluminum and cut to the shape I was looking for.  Then put in a  bend 1" down so that it could be attached to the trim tab with a  couple  of rivets.  If you look at the horn, you will notice that I had  to cut a  bit of it out to allow for travel on the forward side.

Once this was done, I riveted the brace in place.  Since it would be  impossible to try to run solid rivets into the trim tab, I ended up  using stainless steel cs-4 pull rivets.  I though about putting nut  plates in the hinge so it could be screwed on but the holes on  the ends  of  the hinge would not allow it.

My next step was to try and finish of the  slot where the push rod goes through the skin.  I used a fairing  purchased from Aircraft Spruce.  I put it in from the inside and then  finished forming the outside with Super Fill.  This worked out pretty  good.  Kind of nervous about how much travel I will get with such a  small hole so may have to bore out a bit.

I also used Super  Fill to go around the control horn on the trim tab to  fill in all the  gaps and cover the rivets.  This needs a bit more  sanding but turned  out better than I expected.  In addition to this, I  filled inside of  the trim tab also with Super Fill to make it stiffer.

Following  are some pictures with this all done with the servo and  control rod  just in place for pictures.  I am waiting for some Click  Bond studs to  mount the servo.

Finally received the Click Bond studs and got  them installed.  The servo  is now temporarily installed and mounted  with push rod.

I am having some issues with the push rod  hitting the rudder outer skin  when pushed and the flare when it is  pulled.  Trying to get some ideas  on how to get more travel.  Right not  there is about 1/2 an inch but the  servo has 7/8" of travel.  Otherwise, it is finished and I am pretty  satisfied with how everything  turned out.

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Rudder Construction

Started July 15 2009 -  52 Hours Build Time

Today I started gathering all the  pieces for the Rudder  construction.  The first thing to do is cut apart  the rudder stiffeners  and brackets.  I did this with a band saw and then  ran across all the  edges with the scotch brite wheel.

Took all parts and deburred  the edges. After that was completed  took all parts and assembled per  directions with cleco's. Match drilled  all holes and then clecoed the  skins to the skeleton.

Finished match drilling the skins and  the disassembled the  entire rudder.  I have decided to add rudder trim,  am trying to find the  best way to do this with some ideas from other  builders.  You can check  the progress of that modification here - Rudder Trim.

I  then deburred all the holes and dimpled the skin along with all  corresponding parts.

Once everything was all deburred, I  applied Alumiprep 33 and rinsed with  water.  Then applied the Alodine  to all parts.

Now that all parts have Alodine, I mixed up the  Akzo primer  and applied to all parts.

Now that I am ready to  start assembling, need to figure exactly how to  do this rudder trim.   What I am going to try is to cut out a small  portion of he rudder and  add a servo just as is done for the elevator  trim.  This rudder trim  has been done by a couple of others.  You can  see all the rudder trim  mods here in the building  tips  section.

Started putting the rudder together with rivets.  I was hoping  to  do the rudder trim as I put it together, but since the trailing edge  has to be glued with Pro Seal, I decided to just finish it and then do  the rudder trim.  Hope I do not regret this decision.

Finished  riveting the spar to the skin stiffeners tonight and  am ready to start  putting in the rivets attaching the skin to the  stiffeners.  I am  stressing out about putting the rivets in the trailing  edge.  Since  there is the possibility of it hooking as you put them in,  I am sure it  will happen to me.  I have also decided to alternate from  side to side  as I install the rivets.

I worked on the trailing edge rivets  and did exactly as the  direction mentioned by starting to just barely  set the rivets, doing  every tenth rivet or so and then every fifth and  so on till they were  all in then did the same procedure when finishing  them.  This did turn  out OK with no hook noticed. The hammered end of  the rivet did fit  somewhat ok in the dimple, but did not care for it.  However, when  checking the rivets, they all seemed to be pretty loose,  in fact some  fell out as I gave them a little push with a punch.  Not  very happy  about this.  I am thinking the holes got a bit reemed  out  when I match  drilled perpendicular to the plane.  So what I decided to  do is remove  all the rivets and replace them with Oops 426 4-3.5.  This  would give  the same head as the 3-3.5 but with a bit bigger shank.   This procedure  worked out GREAT.  The rivets were very snug, the heads  looked perfect  and the hammered edge when finished set in the dimple  just perfect and  filled it up completely.  This turned out much better  than I had  expected.  The only issue I have with this is that when I  finished  setting the rivets, I ended up with some small dents in the  skin.  Not  bad and maybe be able to cover up, but they are still there.

Rolled the leading edge skins with a 1 1/4" PVC pipe and  riveted  together to get a pretty decent curve.  Put in the counterweight  and  finished riveting the skin to the ribs.  The Rudder is finished.   On to  the Rudder Trim.

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